A royal cremation took place today in Ubud. Tjokorda Istri Sri Tjandrawati was the wife of Tjokorda Gde Sukawati, ‘Penglingsir’, leader of the palace. It was a truly spectacular adrenaline-charged event, which I felt privileged to witness and lucky to get close to.
A week ago the activity at the palace was like a scene from a storybook. The main courtyard filled with builders, carpenters, artists and directors.
Painters adding colour to a ‘Boma’ (protector spirit) carving
The 25-metre-high ‘bade’ cremation tower
The ‘lembu’ bull-buffalo sarcophagus
A cremation ceremony is always a grand public spectacle to which everyone is welcome, so I’m just one of the many thousands who have turned out to watch.
Ubud’s fire engines are on standby
Around 2000 men from 20 local ‘banjar’ (traditional communities) are taking it in turns to carry the lembu and the 5-ton bade; moving at speed, turning and stopping in unison on the 800-metre journey to the cremation site.
The bull is cut free from its bamboo supports before being lifted onto the concrete cremation platform
The coffin is transported from the tower via a giant ramp
The coffin is borne around the cremation ground in a procession flanked by family members
Offerings
Accompanied by prayers and holy water, the body is transferred into the sarcophagus
A troupe of spear-carrying ‘Baris Katekok Jago’ warrior dancers
At last, the fire is lit and the body burnt to ashes, to be later cast out to sea. With this final ceremony of the day, the spirit is free.
Follow
2 Responses to A Royal Cremation